Consumer decision making on second-hand products
         based on the research “Evaluate the enjoyment ​of purchasing second hand clothes
                                        for Italian people”

Introduction


Why do consumers shop second-hand?  With the rising popularity of second-hand products,
understanding the factors that drive consumer decision-making for these items has become
increasingly important.


The production and consumption of clothing have a negative impact on waste management and the
environment (Fletcher et a.,2012). In order to address these issues, the idea of sustainable
consumption has been established to maximize the use of resources and minimize waste (Borusiak et
al., 2020). Also, as a result of this pattern, sales of used products have been rising (Ferraro et
al., 2016). When second-hand purchases were predominantly driven by economic motivations and when
things and goods had high economic worth (Ginsburg, 1980), the cost of goods and items has
significantly decreased from the past. This transformation therefore spurs study attempts to
understand what has contributed to the longevity of this industry and why second-hand clothing is
still popular with modern consumer. (Hur et al., 2020)


Second-hand channels clearly satisfy expectations other than simply economic advantages, prompting
various authors to describe recreational benefits derived from outlets with second-hand products.
They offer opportunities for finding unusual or unique items that are often unavailable in a new
goods market, as well as, changes in consumers' concerns regarding sustainable fashion. With the
growing awareness of sustainable fashion, more and more people are turning to second-hand clothes
as a way to reduce their environmental impact while still enjoying the latest fashion trends.


Thus, the study aimed to identify factors that influence consumer decision making on second-hand
products with a focus on evaluating the enjoyment ​of purchasing second hand clothes for Italian
people. The findings of this research will provide valuable insights for marketers and retailers
who wish to tap into the second-hand market in Italy and other developed countries. By
understanding the key drivers behind consumer decision-making, businesses can better tailor their
marketing strategies to meet the needs and desires of their target audience. Ultimately, this
research will contribute to a better understanding of the evolving fashion industry and the
changing attitudes of consumers towards sustainable fashion.


Understanding Consumer Decision Making


Consumer decision making is the process of a selection among options or courses of action (Hoyer,
MacInnis, 2010, p. 220). Consumer decision-making is a crucial aspect of consumer behaviour, and
the level of evaluation and consideration we apply to product choices can differ significantly
based on factors such as the novelty of the decision and the level of perceived risk. It's
important to note that consumer decision-making is not always a rational process.


Consumer decision making is influenced by a variety of factors, including the consumer's personal
needs, preferences, values, and attitudes, as well as external factors such as social and cultural
influences, marketing messages, and the availability of products.


The process of consumer decision making can be complex and involves a range of cognitive and
emotional factors. Solomon, Bamossy, Askegaard and Hogg (2013, p. 334) states 5 stages in The
traditional model of consumer decision-making process:


1)      Problem recognition

2)      Information search

3)      Evaluation of alternatives

4)      Product choice

5)      Outcomes


Solomon et al. (2013, p. 334) also offered a critique of the traditional model of consumer
decision-making, highlighting its limited applicability due to its focus on rational
decision-making, whereas many consumer decisions may involve irrational behaviour, as consumers may
make unplanned purchases on impulse. Additionally, the authors introduced the behavioural influence
perspective and experimental perspective, which offer alternative explanations of consumer
decision-making.


There are four views or models of consumer decision-making that have been developed to explain how
consumers make purchasing decisions. (Schiffman, Kanuk, Hansen, 2012, pp.65-67) These are:
economic, passive, emotional and cognitive models.


The economic view of consumer decision-making assumes that consumers are rational and make
purchasing decisions based on a careful analysis of the costs and benefits of each option. This
model assumes that consumers have perfect information about the products they are considering and
make decisions that maximize their utility or satisfaction. For example, many fashion firms and
stores have struggled as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic due to major income decreases and
losses, with garment sales falling to less than half of what they were in the year prior to the
COVID-19 outbreak (Liu et al., 2021). While the retail industry has been severely impacted, the
global resale market has fared well in the face of the pandemic. In the midst of the pandemic, 33
million US consumers purchased secondhand clothing for the first time in 2020 (Pellissier, 2021),
the secondhand market is anticipated to increase by 200% in the next five years, generating over
$77 billion in sales, by 2030 it is projected to expand to nearly twice the size of the fast
fashion industry. (Reinhart 2021)


As a result of the pandemic's considerable impact on household finances and consumption, consumers
were compelled to make substitutions (such as buying less expensive goods) because of socioeconomic
restrictions  (Sheth, 2020), regardless of the country, consumers have reduced their spending due
to increased unemployment rates and lower income levels (Jo et al., 2021), while spending has
decreased in all industries except for food and daily necessities, consumers have cut or postponed
their spending on clothing to conserve resources and gain control during this uncertain time. Since
clothing consumption is considered discretionary, consumers had to find alternative ways to save on
clothing expenditure, such as purchasing secondhand clothing (Liu et al., 2021).


The passive view of consumer decision-making suggests that consumers are influenced by external
factors, such as advertising, social norms, and peer pressure, rather than by their own preferences
or rational analysis. This model assumes that consumers are relatively uninformed and make
decisions based on limited information and impulse.


The emotional view of consumer decision-making emphasizes the role of emotions in purchasing
decisions. This model assumes that consumers are driven by emotional factors such as desire,
pleasure, and excitement, rather than by rational analysis or external influences.


The cognitive view of consumer decision-making emphasizes the role of mental processes, such as
perception, attention, memory, and reasoning, in purchasing decisions. This model assumes that
consumers are active processors of information and make decisions based on a complex set of
cognitive processes.


Overall, these models provide different perspectives on how consumers make purchasing decisions,
with each model emphasizing different factors that may influence the decision-making process. While
none of these models provides a complete picture of consumer decision-making, they can help
marketers and businesses better understand the factors that may influence consumer behavior and
develop more effective marketing strategies. In the next section, we will analyse the emotional
view of Italian consumer for purchase.


Advantages and Disadvantages of Second-hand Products


The fashion industry is notorious for its fast-paced trends and rapidly changing styles, leading to
a constant demand for new clothing items. However, the growing awareness of sustainability and the
environmental impact of fast fashion has led to an increase in the popularity of second-hand
products. Second-hand products offer several advantages, such as affordability, unique finds, and
reduced environmental impact. However, there are also some potential disadvantages, such as the
risk of wear and tear, limited availability, and the stigma associated with second-hand items.

·         Saving money:

Economic incentives stem from being responsive to prices and encompass various aspects such as
finding satisfaction in paying the right price, seeking out fair pricing, and actively looking for
good deals. (Guiot and Roux, 2010).

In the early years of the second-hand clothing industry, it has been shown that economic incentive
was the main force behind the purchase of second-hand clothing. (Ginsburg, 1980)

The impact of economic incentives on second-hand consumption has shown varying results in prior
research (Borusiak et al., 2020). While some studies have found that such incentives remain a
significant factor even in present times, especially when the price gap between new and second-hand
products widens. (Laitala et al., 2018)


·         Entertainment motivation:

People's willingness to engage in behaviors that induce pleasant experiences and reduce negative
experiences is referred to as entertainment motivation (Kaczmarek, 2017), when consumers are
motivated by entertainment, they typically enjoy the emotional aspects of their shopping experience
(Babin et al., 1994), Low prices alone are insufficient for these customers to make second-hand
purchases (O’Reilly et al., 1984), Rather it is the enjoyment and pleasurable experience of the
shopping process, as well as the excitement of uncovering unexpected treasures at affordable
prices, that primarily drives these customers' decision to purchase second-hand items.

·         Sustainable practices “eco-friendliness”

This is due to moral or ethical reasons, such as combating waste or overconsumption (Guiot and
Roux, 2010), As the clothing industry generates a large amount of hazardous waste and causes
serious environmental issues (Ruppert et al., 2015), In the clothing industry, there has been a
shift toward sustainable consumption (Fu and Kim, 2019), and second-hand clothing consumption has
become a popular option. (Nørup et al., 2019)

·         Stigma associated with used products

Multiple studies have shown that a significant obstacle to buying second-hand clothing is the
perceived negative perception or low social status attributed to previously worn garments
(Armstrong et al., 2015), Also this perception is connected to other circular clothing options,
such as clothing created from recycled materials (Diddi et al., 2019), and to green items in
general. (Johnstone and Tan, 2015)


The negative perception associated with second-hand clothing is not limited to only used garments
(Laitala et al., 2021), but extends to other circular fashion alternatives such as recycled fiber
clothing and green products in general. This unfavorable perception stems from the cultural view of
used clothing as a symbol of low status, as well as the perception of "negative contamination" from
the previous owners (Hur, 2020). Despite the economic and environmental benefits of second-hand
clothing (Diddi et al., 2019), many non-users of second-hand clothing markets still hold the belief
that these clothes are unclean, unattractive, and outdated, leading to feelings of disgust, fear,
and embarrassment. These emotions can explain why consumers are hesitant to purchase second-hand
clothing. (Hur et al., 2020)


·         Limited Availability

One of the main disadvantages of second-hand clothes is that they may have limited availability, as
these clothes are not new and are usually donated, their availability is dependent on the donations
received by the store, thus if you are looking for a specific item, there is no guarantee that it
will be available in your size or style, this can be frustrating for those who are looking for
specific items, so more time and effort may be needed to find what you’re looking for if you are
searching for something specific, so this can result in a lack of selection and difficulty finding
the desired item.



·         No Warranty or Guarantee

Second-hand clothes are sold as-is, meaning that there is no warranty or guarantee attached to
them, this means that if you purchase a piece of clothing and it has defects or issues, you cannot
return it or get a refund or say you buy a used item today if it breaks down tomorrow you will
often have no chance to get your money back, you are essentially taking a risk when purchasing
second-hand clothes, as you don't know how they were cared for or what condition they are in so, if
you want to rely on used products make sure that you take your time and search for damages or flaws
in order to minimize the risk of buying products that might stop working soon.


·         Unknown History


One of the concerns with second-hand clothes is not knowing the item's history When you buy it, you
don't know where they came from, who wore them before, or how they were cared for, this means that
you don't know what kind of wear and tear the clothes have already gone through, for example,
clothes from a smoking household may have absorbed smoke odor and may be difficult to remove,
similarly clothes from households with pets may have pet hair or dander that can be difficult to
remove completely, furthermore you don't know if the previous owner followed the care instructions
on the label, which can affect the longevity of the clothing for example clothes that were washed
in hot water or put in the dryer when they should have been air-dried may have shrunk or become
misshapen.


·         Hygiene Concerns


Finally, one of the most significant disadvantages of second-hand clothes is hygiene concerns
Although the clothes are typically washed before they are put on sale, there is still a risk of
exposure to bacteria and viruses like skin diseases you may get infected by various diseases that
are related to the skin as some people take good care of their products and maintain them on a
regular basis other people just don’t care about their material things at all so the chances of
infection are really high in the case of second-hand clothes so it is important to thoroughly
inspect the item and sanitize it properly before use.


Consumer Perception of Second-hand Products


Second-hand purchase means the purchase of a used product, which is in a functional state and has
been initially bought by a previous owner (Kessous et al., 2019).  Consumer perception of
second-hand products has evolved over time, as the trend of sustainable consumption gains
popularity. Previously, second-hand products were often viewed as being of lower quality and less
desirable than new products. However, as consumers become more aware of the environmental and
economic benefits of buying second-hand, their perception of these products has started to change.
(Mukherjee, Datta andPaul, 2020)


Studies on consumption and disposal of used (second-hand) goods concentrate in exploring how
internal factors, such as altruistic feelings and concern with the environment, affect human
behavior. Connell and Kozar (2014) observed the importance of improving our understanding of how
and why consumers engage in a particular discard behavior as the key factor to understand clothing
consumption. That leads us to the idea, that the purchase of second-hand products in developer
countries  may not be rooted in economic considerations (lower price) and economic view of consumer
decision-making is not relevant. There is still a need to explain how consumers make purchasing
decisions about the second-hand products in developed countries with high- and middle-income. There
lies the research gap.


Emotions play a significant role in purchasing decisions. While many consumers may believe that
they make logical and rational decisions when buying products, research shows that emotions heavily
influence those decisions. To study the enjoyment (emotional factor) ​of purchasing second hand
clothes, the survey in form of a questionnaire was conducted. The above research gaps lead to the
following hypothesis:


H1: The economic value is positively associated with the enjoyment of purchasing second-hand
clothes.

H2: The uniqueness is positively associated with the enjoyment of purchasing second-hand clothes.

H3: The environmental value is positively associated with the enjoyment of purchasing second-hand
clothes.

Questionnaire created with Google Forms and  distributed online through Whatsapp groups. The
sampling technique used - judgemental sampling, elements are selected based on the judgment of the
researcher, in our case Italians, respondents of the research are people who have the residence in
Italy. After collecting 162 responds, only 42% (68 respondents) have ever bought products in the
second-hand.

In context of the study, in Italy the perception of second-hand products has been slowly evolving,
but there are still some cultural and social barriers to overcome. Traditionally, Italian consumers
have been very brand-conscious and place a high value on owning new, high-quality items. However,
as the trend of sustainable consumption gains momentum, more Italians are becoming aware of the
benefits of buying second-hand products.


However, despite the growing popularity of second-hand products, there are still some negative
perceptions associated with buying used items in Italy. Some consumers may associate second-hand
products with lower quality or may feel embarrassed or ashamed about buying used items.
Additionally, some consumers may view buying second-hand as a sign of economic hardship, which can
create a stigma around second-hand products.


Initially, we wanted to find which factors influence enjoyment of customers in developed
countries.  The results of the survey showed, that:
  * There is NO a significant association of economic value with the enjoyment of purchasing
second-hand clothes. ​
  * There is a positive but weak association between the uniqueness of an item and the enjoyment of
purchasing second-hand clothes. ​
  * There is a positive and moderate association between the environmental value and the enjoyment
of purchasing second-hand clothes. ​

Conclusion


Consumer decision making on second-hand products refers to the process through which consumers
decide to purchase used items rather than new ones. With the increasing popularity of sustainable
and eco-friendly practices, more consumers are opting for second-hand products, including clothing,
furniture, and electronics. The decision-making process for second-hand products is influenced by
several factors, including psychological and social factors, such as the desire to save money, the
appeal of unique and vintage items, and the need to reduce environmental impact. Evaluation the
enjoyment of purchasing second hand clothes for Italian people showed that there is a positive and
moderate association between the environmental value and the enjoyment of purchasing second-hand
clothes, as well as, the uniqueness is positively associated with the enjoyment of purchasing
second-hand clothes. On the other hand, economic value doesn’t bring the enjoyment for the
consumers from the developed country. Understanding these factors can help businesses tailor their
marketing strategies and offerings to better meet the needs and desires of their target audience.




References

Armstrong, C.M., Niinimäki, K., Kujala, S., Karell, E., Lang, C., 2015. Sustainable product-service
systems for clothing: exploring consumer perceptions of con[1]sumption alternatives in Finland. J.
Clean Prod. 97, 30–39. doi:10.1016/j.jclepro. 2014.01.046.

Babin, B.J., Darden, W.R., Griffin, M., 1994. Work and/or fun: measuring hedonic and utilitarian
shopping value. J. Consumer Res. 20 (4), 644–656.

Borusiak, B., Szymkowiak, A., Horska, E., Raszka, N., Zelichowska, ˙ E., 2020. Towards building
sustainable consumption: A study of second-hand buying intentions. Sustainability 12 (3), 875.

Connell, K.Y.H., Kozar, J.M. (2014). Environmentally Sustainable Clothing Consumption: Knowledge,
Attitudes, and Behavior. In: Muthu, S. (eds) Roadmap to Sustainable Textiles and Clothing. Textile
Science and Clothing Technology. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-287-110-7_2

Diddi, S., Yan, R.N., Bloodhart, B., Bajtelsmit, V., McShane, K., 2019. Exploring young adult
consumers’ sustainable clothing consumption intention-behavior gap: a Behavioral Reasoning Theory
perspective. Sustain. Prod. Consump. 18, 200–209. doi:10.1016/j.spc.2019.02.009

Ferraro, C., Sands, S., Brace-Govan, J., Services, C., 2016. The role of fashionability in
second-hand shopping motivations. J. Retail. 32, 262–268.

Fletcher, K., 2012. Durability, fashion, sustainability: The processes and practices of use.
Fashion Pract. 4 (2), 221–238.


Fu, W., Kim, Y.K., 2019. Eco-fashion consumption: cognitive-experiential self-theory. Family
Consumer Sci. Res. J. 47 (3), 220–236.

Ginsburg, M., 1980. Rags to riches: the second-hand clothes trade 1700–1978. Costume 14 (1),
121–135.

Guiot, D., Roux, D., 2010. A second-hand shoppers’ motivation scale: Antecedents, consequences, and
implications for retailers. J. Retail. 86 (4), 355–371.

Hoyer, W.D. and MacInnis, D.J. (2010) “Chapter 8,” in Consumer behavior. 5th edn. Boston, MA, USA:
Cengage Learning, pp. 220–221.

Hur, E., 2020. Rebirth fashion: secondhand clothing consumption values and perceived risks. J.
Clean. Prod. 273 (November), 122951. doi:10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.122951

Jo, H., E. Shin, and H. Kim. 2021. “Changes in Consumer Behaviour in the Post-COVID-19 Era in
Seoul, South Korea.” Sustainability 13 (1): 136.

Johnstone, M.L., Tan, L.P., 2015. Exploring the gap between consumers’ greenrhetoric and purchasing
behaviour. J. Bus. Ethics 132 (2), 311–328. doi:10.1007/ s10551-014-2316-3

Kaczmarek, L.D., 2017. Hedonic Motivation. In: Zeigler-Hill, V., Shackelford, T.K. (Eds.),
Encyclopedia of Personality and Individual Differences. Springer International Publishing, Cham,
pp. 1–3.

Kessous, A. and Valette-Florence, P. (2019) “‘from Prada to Nada’: Consumers and their luxury
products: A contrast between second-hand and first-hand luxury products,” Journal of Business
Research, 102, pp. 313–327. Available at: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2019.02.033

Laitala, K., Klepp, I.G., 2018. Motivations for and against second-hand clothing acquisition.
Clothing Cultures 5 (2), 247–262.

Laitala, K., Klepp, I.G., Haugrønning, V., Throne-Holst, H., Strandbakken, P., 2021.Increasing
repair of household appliances, mobile phones and clothing: expe[1]riences from consumers and the
repair industry. J. Clean. Prod. 282, 125349.doi:10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.125349.

Liu, C., S. Xia, and C. Lang. 2021. “Clothing Consumption during the COVID-19 Pandemic: Evidence
from Mining Tweets.” Clothing and Textiles Research
Journal.doi:https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X211014973.

Mukherjee, S., Datta, B. and Paul, J. (2020) “The phenomenon of purchasing second-hand products by
the BOP consumers,” Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 57, p. 102189. Available at:
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jretconser.2020.102189.

Nørup, N., Pihl, K., Damgaard, A., Scheutz, C., 2019. Evaluation of a European textile sorting
centre: Material flow analysis and life cycle inventory. Resour. Conserv. Recycl. 143, 310–319

O’Reilly, L., Rucker, M., Hughes, R., Gorang, M., Hand, S., 1984. The relationship of psychological
and situational variables to usage of a second-order marketing system. J. Acad. Mark. Sci. 12 (3),
53–76.

Pellissier, C. 2021. “Second-hand: 33 Million New Customers in 2020 in the United States Alone.”
Yahoo news, https://sg.news.yahoo.com/second-hand-33-million-customers-092438320

Reinhart, J. 2021. “2021 Resale Report.” ThredUP, https://www.thredup.com/resale

Ruppert-Stroescu, M., LeHew, M.L., Connell, K.Y.H., Armstrong, C.M., 2015. Creativity and
sustainable fashion apparel consumption: The fashion detox. Clothing Text. Res. J. 33 (3), 167–182.

Schiffman, L.G., Kanuk, L.L. and Hansen, H. (2012) “CHAPTER 4 ,” in Consumer behaviour: A European
outlook. 2nd edn. Harlow, England: Pearson Education Limited, pp. 65–68.

Sheth, J. 2020. “Impact of Covid-19 on Consumer Behavior: Will the Old Habits Return or Die?”
Journal of Business Research 117: 280–283. doi:https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2020.05.059

Solomon, M.R. et al. (2013) “Chapter 9,” in Consumer behaviour: A European perspective. 5th edn.
Pearson, pp. 334-335.


Name and surname of the student, personal number:

Anastasiia Lukianenko, M22920

Mostafa Selim, M220151