Collier's. 24 August 1»<0
GOLD MEDAL AWARDS
■
Natalie's Wedding
8 MEN
YOU CAN'T RESIST
DINAH SHORE
she's got a secret!
MADONNA STOPS AT NOTHING
Smiley Culture Christopher Walken Depeche Working Week Italian Design Steaming Muslims;
fcisHiongfcilloiif
- poisonous looks
Water — is it safe to drink?   Julian Clary, the man behind the make-up    'The Krays' and the Kemps — can pop stars act? Monie Love and the changing face of rap    Viking Combat-have martial arts gone mad?    Hip hop fashion adopts the suit    The man behind 'The Toxic A venger' %
977026235700605
ADVENTURES of ROBIN HOOD
3UH
fN THIS NUMBER
GEOFFREY TOYE
JEAN HERS HOLT
W.JOHN ELTON
etc, ere.
/ /_
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RADIO TIMES
Screen Pictorial, November 1938 Film Feature, February 1947 Radio Times, 2-8 January 1954 Cine'-Mitoir, 1 December 1933 See, November 1954
■nam
956
Every
HITCHCOC
'■ MM tfkct look I
00-IT-YOURSELF SUPPLEMENT
Sailing Round the World Alone
Exclusive Interview With
EDWARD ALLCARD
WfCody's. 8 September 1956
The Queen, 20 December 1961 Town, November 1967; June 1966 The Queen, 17 March 1959 The Wag-tale, no. 1, 1929
The Full Score
•			
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' Ubmdit Victoria Hardle ofi hia n«w op«n
John Tavcrver
From Arrtoi
- Webern to
\V\\ \    \        Normjn Wltdom Tai Dun
The condition o( music I mm dte viwl I to the muikaJ Erik Bergman ' ^ilptlneo
Summer 2000
LONDON'S BIGGEST SELLING
HIGH TO MIDDLE PAIN As defined by Aerobics experts DANGER: Time Out Health WARNING:
AEROBICS CAN SERIOUSLY DAMAGE YOUR HEALTH
the wall sheet jour
1	1, M-hnL^hw i n> „ - j.
2, FOLK U VRI C	
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Bikini,
EMIGRE NO.51 SUMMER 1999 PRICE $7.9$
We, the undersigned, ore graphic designers, art directors and visual communicators who hove been raised in a world in which the techniques and apparatus of advertising have persistently been presented to us as the most lucrative, effective and desirable use of our talents. Many design teachers and mentors promote this belief; the market rewards it; a tide of books and publications reinforces it.
Encouraged in this direction, designers then apply their skill and imagination to sell dog biscuits, designer coffee, diamonds, detergents, hair gel, cigarettes, credit cards, sneakers, butt toners, light beer and heavy-duty recreational vehicles. Commercial work has always paid the bills, but many graphic designers have now let it become, in large measure, what graphic designers do. This, in turn, is how the world perceives design. The profession's time and energy is used up manufacturing demand for things that are inessential at best.
Many of us have grown increasingly uncomfortable with this view of design. Designers who devote their efforts primarily to advertising, marketing and brand development are supporting, and implicitly endorsing, a mental environment so saturated with commercial messages that it is changing the very way citizen-consumers speak, think, feel, respond and interact. To some extent we ore all helping draft a reductive and immeasurably harmful code of public discourse.
There ore pursuits more worthy of our problem-solving skills. Unprecedented environmental, social and cultural crises demand our attention. Many cultural interventions, social marketing campaigns, books, magazines, exhibitions, educational tools, television programs, films, charitable causes and other information design projects urgently require our expertise and help.
We propose a reversal of priorities in favor of more useful, lasting and democratic forms of communication - a mindshift away from product marketing and toward the exploration and production of a new kind of meaning. The scope of debate is shrinking; it must expand. Consumerism is running uncontested; it must be challenged by other perspectives expressed, in part, through the visual languages and resources of design.
In 1964, 22 visual communicators signed the original call for our skills to be put to worthwhile use. With the explosive growth of global commercial culture, their message has only grown more urgent. Todoy, we renew their manifesto in expectation that no more decodes will pass before it is taken to heart.
Jonathan Barnbrook Nick Bell Andrew Blauv&lt Hons Bockting Irma Boom Sheila Lavrnnt d« Brett «vi He
Max Brulnsma sian Cook Linda van Deurten Chris Dixon William Orenttel Cert Oumbar Simon Esterion Vine* Frost
Ken Garland Hilton Glaser JJeisica Helfend Steve n Heller Andrew Howard Tib or Kaiman Jef f ery Keedy
Zuzana Licko Ellen Lupton Katharine HcCoy Armand Hevli J. Abbott Milter Rick Poynor Lucienn* Robert!
Erik Spieker mann ion van Taarn Teal Trfggt Rudy Vanderlam Bob Wilkinson
Wimbledon '79 A special section
» t ^ M
—DAM THE MITWItHOPBrULS?
SPORTS STARS AND CELEBRITY
In 1951, television had yet to assert its hypnotic hold: the general interest magazine still held the mass American audience's gaze. Collier's recalls the victory covers that celebrated the end of the Second World War (colour the helmet green and you're there): the sports star as granite-jawed hero surrounded by a jubilant, adoring crowd. By 1978, Muhammad Ali—his celebrity elevated to the point where he can be signified by a single three letter word, almost anywhere in the world—is represented by Rolling Stone in more ambiguous terms, the hands that have made his fortune and fame almost occupying as much of the frame as his face. The jaw may be still set strong, but the eyes, in their penetrating directness, suggest depth and sensitivity. A decade later, sports celebrity has taken another cultural turn. "Boris Becker Inc.: A Star and His Money", reads Newsweek's cover line. Whilst the representation of personal talent and power is there in the shot, a dynamic study in muscle and sinew, the story is all about financial clout. Becker's own trajectory after the end of his playing career is spookily emblematic of where sports celebrity went next: downhill into sexual drama, marriage break-up, financial scandal and the inevitable career rebirth... as a media celebrity.
Rolling Stone, 4 May 1978 Telegraph Sunday Magazine, 24 June 1979 Collier's. 15 December 1951 Stern, no. 40, September 1975
Collier's
Hip' Itrn «lic> Pul itr Krarl in '■ll^irlbrral. RinV"
Tin- 62.1 ALL-AMERICA FOOTBALL TEAM
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Uli» hi, February 1989
4337^6
December 20th 1961
The Queen
December 20th 1961
FOB MEM. «KI iHf 1,'S
TOWN
This is Raquel Welch. She likes to read. She reads books and magazines. See Raquel read. If she reads this issue, she can read a pre vie w of a new no vel by Mordecal Richler.,
She can read an article by Tom Wolfe on crazy California surfing gangs. She can read all about Canadians in England. If she gets tired of reading, she can look ; a lot more pictures of herself
QUEEN AMD TOWN MAGAZINES
-        magaz nes which evolved from conventional beginnings—one m a Soaety glossy and the other as tailoring trade title—to embody the transformation 4 Braah society and culture in the late 1950s and early 1960s. The distance travelled
n
LA SAGA D'UNE FEMME MODERNE
FACE AU DRAME DE LA SEPARATIO
■ COMMENT TOUT SEST BRISE
•L ALBUM DU BONHEUR PERDU
■
ÍOYAL SFi FOUR: 1
iS\ OF THE MARATHONS
I
■ -'=-.-n edition, DEcember 1ĎŮ2 Queen, 37 Msrch 1963 O-j-Efí fn the City, 1& Junů 1968 O*.' Magazine, no. 1, April 1ŮŮ3
EXCL
HOW 4.1 F E CHANGED FOR.ti Linu? PRINCES
CELEBRmf ROYALS
It has been nolad that, bclone Ihe invention of modern Celehrity the nn-y comparable groups to enjoy such notoriety were cods and royally.
Magazine covers through Ihe early decades of Ihe twentieth century certainly represented a crossover period between Ihe royals—deilies n Ever seemed to do that well in terms of cover presence—and the movie stars who inaugurated the age of celebrity. Tlie problem for royally was lhat editors kept them on i ha cove r out oT a sense of duty, whereas movie stars reflected Ihe audience's desires. Add ihe (act that much European royalty was unattractive and unfashionable (Americans enjoyed Ihe advantage of not having to dear all this dead wood out of tho way betore they could get on with being modern) and it becomes abwDus that it wasn't much of a contest. Royalty, at course, did not subsequently disappear from the ouftural agenda: it became another specialist interest Ejbjsct. as these covers ol hfejssty magazine demonstrate- Bui it has often been driven to adopt many of the lurid characteristics of 'proper' Krcbrity in order lo maintain a position on mainstream magazines.
IN THE WORLD
HULA Lf NSKA BY KOO STARK
•TERENCE STAMP ■ HUE Y WftSf ■Mil GlftSOlM ■LESLEY JOSEPH
WtNl
A SPORTY N£W. CAR 1
A HOLIDAY IN RIO
1p^£l,rj(WCASr1
CASES OF CHAWPAGNE  - f
Enquire, September 1965
Dazed & Confused, September 2004; June 2000 Rolling Stone, 15 October 1998 Eye, March 1969; Augus! 1968 Zigzag, February 1977
80
In the future, -« everybody will be \ Elvis for 15 minutes;^
Jack Good is making dreams come true for R J. Proby^ Shakiif Stevens, and Timothy Wh rtnall Cut-out the mask,turn to page 12 and join the club.
The Living Guide To All London's Events December 17-23 lOp
Z3pp3 Scores ZOO
Time Out, 17-23 December 1971; 25 November-1 December 1977
Collier's
The SOLUTION to the
GREAT BRINK'S ROBBERY?
Joseph F. Dinneen rerfj the Crime Story of the Century
Where do you stand on the
GRAVEST QUESTION OF OUR TIME?
Collier's, 8 January 1954
The Sunday Times Magazine, 27 April 19S0
Esquire, June 1964
Time Out, 22-28 February 1974
Look, 14 January 1941; 28 January 1964
The New Yorker, 13 JuFy 1942
252164
542
Vu, 13 May 1931 Picture Post, 25 May 1940
48
439080410400120
OCTOBER, 1962
LAST MAN IN THE RING: SONNY LISTON AND FLOYD PATTERSON TALK ABOUT BEING TOUGH AND SCARED
SEOffGE LOIS  ' HifiDLD finiEGEff
i
25 June 65 V        Hi ^™ —
BEATLESTO GO ON VIETNAM PEACE MISSION
Ten years ago this week In an FBI test
President Kennedy was shot in Dallas. this bullet was fired
According to the Warren Commission there       solely into the wrist of a corpse, was a lone assassin who fired three bullets at the What really happened?
President's car. One missed,one hit Kennedy's head. See page 12.
This pristine bullet supposedly passed through Kennedy's neck, hit fellow passenger Governor Connally in the back, broke his fifth rib, blew a two inch hole in his chest, smashed his forearm and wrist, and ended up lodged in his thigh.
1
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Tew men have exploited their fellows with such brutal insensitivity as Winston Churchill'
'"v.:^" OnhtelGOth anniversary we ^y^W^-'.   provide avs antedote * to the current stream of Churchilitana.
Also En this rssue:
1
77/ne Out, 29 November-5 December 1974; 23-29 November 1973
OBSERVER
THE HORROR OF VIETNAM AND THE SPEED OF THE AHA3/1 SRAELI  CAMPAIGN HAVE BROUGHT
A NEW DIMENSION INTO THE REPORTING OF WAR. IN THIS ISSUE WE EXAMINE THE CRAFT
OF THE WAR CORRESPONDENT AND PHOTOGRAPHER.
TELEGRAPH
SUNDAY MAGAZINE
Observer Magazine, 3 September 1967 Telegraph Sunday Magazine, 17June1979;5ApriM981 The Independent Magazine, 9 March 1991; 13 June 1996
The
Independent
Magazine
13/07/96
'Nothing prepares you for it' Tony Blair on the loneliness of leadership
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■ no. 67, Spring 2006; . 41, December 2000-January 2001; no. 23, r-December 1997; no, 28, April-May 1999
Modas, no. 31, 1936
Esquire, August 1957; March 1955; April 1955
kus HIDESHI HMD tropin CQBK BLOC PHRTV TOHTDIMt VHSHTI BUnVRn RFGIinflISTRII
GOOD HOUSEKEEP1T
jouHWL venu» de««tk-Aro We Commercializing Sex?
■•I LOST IIB FOUNOSI"-NEW OlET STOSV
to Pages—More House lor Less Money
MIDSUMMER STORY NUMBER, WITH TEN STORIES AU6U5T1599 TEN CENTS
PRICE 10
I CENTS
w
M THE CURTIS PUBLISHING COMPANY h
E£ PHILADELPHIA J*
fs>: ••    •••• .«3«ra^~^>R>rc?A^
Good Housekeeping, November 1924
The Ladies' Home Journal, October 1956; August 1899
The Munsey, April 1905
APRIL
Lika Joko, 20 October 1894 Girl's Own, December 1939; March 193B
Glamour, 12 March 193B
3714
ERSCHEINT WÖCHENTLICH EINMAL • PREIS TOFFG., Kc 1,60 30 GR., 30 SCHWEIZER RP. • V. b. b. * M^MM j^BHMi * JAHRGANG XI • NR. 42 ■ 1(5.10.1932
DER SINN DES
HITLERGRUSSES.
X
		
		Articles by:
		FRANTZ FANON
■                    } 1 M		i     WILLIAM MELVIN
		1 KELLEY
		I      MAR! EVANS
		F KEORAPETSE
		KGOSITSILE
		and Others
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Veqro Diqest
JANUABV   IQGO A JOHNSON PUDL1CAT10« ^ß 30-*
Ml
vc™ LITERARY LIONS mATiow        AND VALUES
"Tn» leading Lion"
THE CRISIS OF THE BLACK
NEGRO HISTOIff//.,
ro Diqest
»UOLICATION ,frä
THE TRUTH ABOUT NEGRO CRIME
Mr:-ft--"1 ■
	and BLACK CULTURAL NATIONALISM
	
Lick Die
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INTER NUTWJNAl TIME;
THEY SHOOT
DOGS DONT THEY?
CRACKPOT COURTS
REBEL RADIO
One ff.Vra^ Team
Scowone somewhere has got you taped
fT, 30 December-13 January 1972 February 1977; 19 June 1972; 17 November-1 December 1972; 24 March 1972; December 197B; 15-19 July 1971
ITJl m»lt—   HM l*ofr Hfc« l**n
The Living Guide to London October 29-November 4 lOp
Does It Blow My Mind Does It Expand My Consciousness?
The people who tell ami distribute films - part one.
Chris Spedding: The Everywhere Guitarist
All knocked-out — not all the time anyway.
Sell-Out: A Home Heating Guide
Electricity, gas. oil -you name it.
A mark of oppression becomes a badge of pride.
Time Out,
30 May-13 June 1969;
18-24 June 1971;
29 October-4 November 1970;
22-28 June 1979;
15-21 December 1978
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25p
Thi magjuV* fartfwnn* homosexual man Bndi*ynqn    Mo. 71
Warhol's Hofly/Crowteyfe Magic
Volume 1. Number 6. si* shillings.
Jeremy
§tt6tcl\ed out for you -
ourGWer\ttiie
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\o.ember 1934; February 1934; 1933
t Only, January 1954
FiIM
8 (TNT ON PLEA5 ING
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ROYAL HAIF?
BUMPERS & BACKFLASH
Pinbafl Passion
BEAT GIRLS
SATAN AND
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SUPERHERO
fluidu
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e and
LOSERS II
IBBI
IN THE U
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An Cirsl HWDTjr
JT LEROY
JAIL BARDS
Stories from Hi? Slat?-I
RJJS Tht Priscilfas ■ Wilfy Vlautin • Milk Kart * Lany 'WHd Man" Fbdw • IJnrJs Jehn anil Wftilalock • Teriy Edwards
boynnd ttu £Guntn-*-cu.lEurs
1AHES CAUTY: preparing for emergencies
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1976
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1 DEAD FlliGEBS TALK
1   SIRE DltEKVISBS......
mediation of a mainstream music press. Sniffin' Glue, the so-called bible of the punk movement, was founded by Mark Perry in July 1976 and folded by him a year later, a victim of its own success, having increased its circulation from 50 copies to 15,000. Tony Drayton started the influential Ripped & Torn in Glasgow around the same time. It lasted until 1979. Situation 3 was closely associated with the seminal Rough Trade record shop and narrowly escaped prosecution in Scotland after featuring an erect penis on the cover of one issue.
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73
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Frieze, November-December 1997; May 2003
Exit, Autumn/Winter 2004 Ark, 1956
DESIGN MAGAZINES
There seem to have been design magazines for as long as the discipline has existed: their covers articulate a shifting polemic on what design actually means. Gebrauchsgraphik Jahrgang, founded in Berlin in 1924, was influential in spreading
ARTISTS AND ART MAGAZINES IN THE EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURY
The disruptive artistic movements of the twentieth century enjoyed a symbiotic relationship with the specialist publications that promoted their ideas and disseminated their artworks and writings. Minotaure, 1933 to 1939, was a sumptuous Surrealist publication with fantastic covers, colour printing and work by leading figures such as Picasso, Dali and in this case Max Ernst. The now rare Blad Voor Kunst was an outlet for Expressionist artists in The Netherlands. Transatlantic title Broom, launched in 1921, was a template for the twentieth century 'little' literary review, an 'aristocratic format' that showcased experimental writing and painting with luxurious production values, Another product of the seemingly endless supply of publishers willing to fund the promotion of Modernism, Transition billed itself as "An International Quarterly for Creative Experiment". As well as publishing works in progress by writers such as Joyce and Kafka, it also featured artworks by the likes of Hans Arp, Paul Klee, Alberto Giacometti, Kurt Schwitters and, the creator of this cover, Joan Miro. Despite looking like an organ of Constructivism, Revue Cenpa was actually a splendidly produced 1950s showcase for the French trade organisation representing printers and paper manufacturers. This issue came wrapped in a characteristic illustration by Fernand Leger.
GRAPHIC
DESIGN
INCL.
no-54, no. 53, no, 64. no. 67, no. 60
Graphic design vs. style, globalism, criticism, science, authenticity and humanisi
Michael Schmidt Peter Bilak Katherine McCoy Randy Nakamnra Dmitri Siegel Kenneth FitzGerald Anthony inciong Mr. Keedy David Cabianca Max Kisman
No. 67
No. 64
RICK VALICENTI / KENNETH FITZGERALD MR.KEEDY / ANDREW BLAUVELT KAXI NIK HAS & DENISE GONZALES CRISP & LOUISE SANDHAltS JESSICA H ELF AND & WILLIAM DRENTTEL / SHAWN WOLFE THE READERS RESPOND
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Emigre 37
Copy« E»i,r.
Andy Warhol's Interview, July 1975 Emigre, no. 37