Colters. 24 August 1940 Smiley Culture Christopher Walken Depeche WorkingWeek Italian Design Steam Wg Muslims magazine fashiontfallout -poisonous looks 'j * Wafer — is it safe to drink ? Julian Clary, the man behind i make-up The Krays' and the Kemps — can pop stars act? Monte Love and the changing face of rap Viking Combat have martial arts gone mad? Hip hop fashion adopts the suit The man behind 'The Toxic A venger' # ADVENTURES of ROBIN HOOD 3UH fN THIS NUMBER GEOFFREY TOYE JEAN HERS HOLT W.JOHN ELTON etc, ere. / /_ »9C
  • i;VU.\.\CTELIV!i1AV RADIO TIMES Screen Pictorial, November 1938 Film Feature, February 1947 Radio Times, 2-8 January 1954 Cine'-Mitoir, 1 December 1933 See, November 1954 ■nam 956 Every HITCHCOC '■ MM tfkct look I 00-IT-YOURSELF SUPPLEMENT Sailing Round the World Alone Exclusive Interview With EDWARD ALLCARD WfCody's. 8 September 1956 The Queen, 20 December 1961 Town, November 1967; June 1966 The Queen, 17 March 1959 The Wag-tale, no. 1, 1929 I LONDON'S BIGGEST SELLING GUIDE TO FILM THEATRE MUSIC - MGHTUf HIGH TO MIDDLE PAIN As defined by Aerobics experts DANGER: Time Out Health WARNING: AEROBICS CAN SERIOUSLY DAMAGE YOUR HEALTH the wall sheet jour j Uebestrduin 2. FOLK LYRIC I. FULKLOfllO I FIRST-THINGS FIRST HANIFESTO 2000 We, the undersigned, arc graphic designers, art director* and visual communicators who Save been raised In o World in which the techniques and apparatus of advertising have persistently been presented to us as the most lucrative, effective and desirable use of our talents. Many delimit teacher? ond mentors promote this belief; thr market rewards It; 0 tide of books and publications reinforces it. Encouraged in this direction, designers then apply their skill ond imagination to sell dog biscuit*, designer coffee, diamonds, detergents, hair gel, cigarettes, credit cards, sneakers, butt toners, light beer ond heavy-duty recreational vehicles. Commercial work has always paid the bills, but many graphic designers have now let it become:, in large measure, what graphic designers do. This, in turn, is how the world perceives design. The profession's time ond energy is i»sed up manufacturing demand for (hings that ore inessential at best. Many of us have grown increasingly uncomfortable with thii view of design. Designers who devote their efforts primarily to advertising, marketing and brand development are supporting, and Implicitly endorsing, a mental environment sa saturated with commercial messages that it is changing the very way citizen-consumers speak, think, feel, respond ond interoct. To some extent we are all helping draft a reductive and immeasurably harmful code of public discourse. There are pursuits more worthy of our problem- solving skills. Unprecedented environmental, to cm I and cultural crises demand our attention. Many cultural interventions, social marketing campaigns, hooks, magazines, exhibitions, educational tools, television programs, films, charitable causes and ether Information design projects urgently require our expertise and help. We propose a reversal of priorities in favor of more useful, lasting and democratic forms of communication - a mindshift away from product marketing and toward the exploration ond production of a new kind of meaning. The scope of debate is shrinking; it must expand. Consumerism is running uncontested; it must be challenged by other perspectives expressed, in part, through the visual languages and resources of design. In 1V44, 22 visual communicators signed the original call for our skills to be put to worthwhile use. With the explosive growth of global commercial culture, their message has only grown more urgent. Today, we renew their manifesto in expectation that no more decades will puss before it Is taken to heart. Jonathan Barnbruak Nick Boll Andrew eloirvelt riant Bockting lima Boom SheLlo levrant di BreWevitle Max & ru i i'ii cuo (|on took Undo von Oeu'ien ChiHi Drtdn Williom Drcn11e I Cert Dumber Simon Esterson Vines Frost Ken Oarland Hilton closer Jesiico Hetfand Steven H«ll*f Andrew Howard Tlbor Kalmon Joffery Koedy ZuEano Licko Ellen Lupton Kvthcrine McCoy Hrmontl Mevis J. Rbbott Miller Rick Poynor lucionn* Roberts Erik Jpiekormann Jan von Team Tool Trlsgs Rudy Vcnderlons Bob Wilkinmn Wimbledon 79 A special section ttiDm? WBD Ail THE TTUU1 HOPgJfULS? ACOMPETTnOH IDISBDTFS SPORTS STARS AND CELEBRITY In 1951, television had yet to assert its hypnotic hold: the general interest magazine still held the mass American audience's gaze. Collier's recalls the victory covers that celebrated the end of the Second World War (colour the helmet green and you're there): the sports star as granite-jawed hero surrounded by a jubilant, adoring crowd. By 1978, Muhammad Ali—his celebrity elevated to the point where he can be signified by a single three letter word, almost anywhere in the world—is represented by Rolling Stone in more ambiguous terms, the hands that have made his fortune and fame almost occupying as much of the frame as his face. The jaw may be still set strong, but the eyes, in their penetrating directness, suggest depth and sensitivity. A decade later, sports celebrity has taken another cultural turn. "Boris Becker Inc.: A Star and His Money", reads Newsweek's cover line. Whilst the representation of personal talent and power is there in the shot, a dynamic study in muscle and sinew, the story is all about financial clout. Becker's own trajectory after the end of his playing career is spookily emblematic of where sports celebrity went next: downhill into sexual drama, marriage break-up, financial scandal and the inevitable career rebirth... as a media celebrity. Rolling Stone, 4 May 1978 Telegraph Sunday Magazine, 24 June 1979 Collier's. 15 December 1951 Stem, no. 40, September 1975 Collier's Hip' llni «lic> Pul itr Krarl in '■ll^irlbrral. RinV" Tin- 62.1 ALL-AMERICA FOOTBALL TEAM 9999999991 73520^15 Uli» hi, February 1989 4337^6 December 20th 1961 The Queen December 20th 1961 FOB MEM. «KI iHf 1,6 TOWN This is Raquel Welch. She likes to read. She reads books and magazines. See Raquel read. If she reads this issue, she can read a pre vie w of a new no vel by Mordecal Richler., She can read an article by Tom Wolfe on crazy California surfing gangs. She can read all about Canadians in England. If she gets tired of reading, she can look ; a lot more pictures of herself QUEEN AMD TOWN MAGAZINES - magaz nes which evolved from conventional beginnings—one m a Soaety glossy and the other as tailoring trade title—to embody the transformation 4 Braah society and culture in the late 1950s and early 1960s. The distance travelled n LA SAGA D'UNE FEMME MODERNE FACE AU DRAME DE LA SEPARATIO ■ COMMENT TOUT SEST BRISE •L ALBUM DU BONHEUR PERDU ■ ÍOYAL SFi FOUR: 1 iS\ OF THE MARATHONS ■ -'=-.-n edition, December 1ĎŮ2 Queen, 37 March 1963 O-j-Efí in the City, 1& Junů 1968 Otí! Magazine, no. 1, April EXCL HOW 4.1 F E CHANGED FOR. !fl LITTLf PRINCES CELEBRrTY ROYALS It has been nolad that, before Ihe invention of modern celehriry the nn-y Comparable gtoups to enjoy such notoriety were cods and royally. Magazine covers through the early decades of Ihe twentieth century certainly represented a crossover period between Ihe royals—deilies n Ever seemed to do lhat well in terms of cover presence—and the movie stare who inaugurated the age of celebrity. Tlie problem for royally was lhat editors kept them on i he cove r out oT a sense of duty, whojoas movie siars reflected Ihe audience's desires. Add !ha (act that much European royalty was unattractive and unfashionable (Americans enjoyed Ihe advantage of not having to olsar all this dead wood out of the way before they could get on with being modem) and it becomes abwDus that it wasn't much of a contest. Royally, of course, did not subsequently disappear from the cultural agenda: it became another specialist interest Eubjsct. as these covers ol hfejssty magazine demonstrate- Bui it has often been driven to adopt many of the lurid characteristics of 'proper' CO^cbrity in orderlo maintain a position on mainstream magazines.. IN THE WORLD HULA Lf NSKA BY KOO STARK •TFRÍNCE STAMP ■ HUE Y WftSf ■Mil GIASOIM ■LESLEY JOSEPH WtNl A SPORTY N£W. CAR 1 A HO LID AT IN RIO Í^EIjÓOŮCASH CASES OF CHAMPAGNE - f Enquire, September 1965 Dazed & Confused, September 2004; June 2000 Rolling Stone, 15 October 1998 Eye, March 1969; Augus! 1968 Zigzag, February 1977 80 In the future, -« everybody will be \ Elvis for 15 minutes;^ Jack Good is making dreams come true for R J. Proby, Shakiif Stevens, and Timothy Wh rtnall Cut-out the mask,turn to page 12 and join the club. lffiD§®QOS The Living Guide To All London's Events December 17-23 lOp Z3pp3 Scores ZOO Time Out, 17-23 December 1971; 25 November-1 December 1977 Collier's The SOLUTION to the GREAT BRINK'S ROBBERY? Joseph F. Dinneen tetls the Crime Story of the Century Where do you stand on the GRAVEST QUESTION OF OUR TIME? Collier's, 8 January 1954 The Sunday Times Magazine, 27 April 19S0 Esquire, June 1964 Time Out, 22-28 February 1974 Look, 14 January 1941; 28 January 1964 The New Yorker, 13 JuFy 1942 252164 542 Vu, 13 May 1931 Picture Post, 25 May 1940 48 439080410400120 OCTOBER, 1962 LAST MAN IN THE RING: SONNY LISTON AND FLOYD PATTERSON TALK ABOUT BEING TOUGH AND SCARED SEOffGE LOIS ' HifiDLD (IHIECtB 25 June 65 M Hi ^™ — BEATLESTO GO ON VIETNAM PEACE MISSION Ten years ago this week In an FBI test President Kennedy was shot in Dallas. this bullet was fired According to the Warren Commission there solely into the wrist of a corpse, was a lone assassin who fired three bullets at the What really happened? President's car. One missed,one hit Kennedy's head. See page 12. This pristine bullet supposedly passed through Kennedy's neck, hit fellow passenger Governor Connally in the back, broke his fifth rib, blew a two inch hole in his chest, smashed his forearm and wrist, and ended up lodged in his thigh. 1 %0* Tew men have exploited their fellows with such brutal insensitivity as Winston Churchill' '"v.:^" 0:v his XOOth anniversary we ^y^W^-'. provide avs antedote * to the current stream of Churchilitana. Also En this essue: 1 77/ne Ouf, 29 November-5 December 1974; 23-29 November 1973 OBSERVER THE HORROR OF VIETNAM AND THE SPEED OF THE AHA3/1 SRAELI CAMPAIGN HAVE BROUGHT A NEW DIMENSION INTO THE REPORTING OF WAR. IN THIS ISSUE WE EXAMINE THE CRAFT OF THE WAR CORRESPONDENT AND PHOTOGRAPHER. TELEGRAPH SUNDAY MAGAZINE Observer Magazine, 3 September 1967 Telegraph Sunday Magazine, 17June1979;5ApriM981 The Independent Magazine, 9 March 1991; 13 June 1996 The Independent Magazine 13/07/96 'Nothing prepares you for it' Tony Blair on the loneliness of leadership 99999999 n o 5 U! > iťíliillll ■ no. 67, Spring 2006; . 41, December 2000-January 2001; no. 23, r-December 1997; no, 28, April-May 1999 Modas, no. 31, 1936 Esquire, August 1957; March 1955; April 1955 kus HIDESHI HMD tropin CQBK BLOC PHRTV TOHTDIMt VHSHTI BUnVRn RFGIinflISTRII GOOD HOUSEKEEP1T jouHWL venu» DE««TK-Aro We Commercializing Sex? ■•I LOST IIB FOUNOSI"-NEW OlET STOSV to Pages—More House lor Less Money midsummer story number, with ten stories au6u5t1599 ten cents PRICE 10 I CENTS w Gfc? ThE CURTIS PUBLISHING COMPANY |% PHILADELPHIA r> fs>: •• •••• «j«o^^;>ä>w:>«:^^ Good Housekeeping, November 1924 The Ladies' Home Journal, October 1956; August 1899 The Munsey, April 1905 APRIL Lika Joko, 20 October 1894 Girl's Own, December 1939; March 193B Glamour, 12 March 193B 3714 ERSCHEINT WÖCHENTLICH EINMAL • PREIS TOFFG., Kc 1,60 30 GR., 30 SCHWEIZER RP. • V. b. b. * M^MHH (■FMnMiW * JAHRGANG Kl • NR. 42 ■ 1(5.10.1932 DER SINN DES HITLERGRUSSES. X Articles by: FRANTZ FANON ■ } 1 M i WILLIAM MELVIN 1 KELLEY I MAR! EVANS F KEORAPETSE KGOSITSILE and Others 7ü:. I >S wEfi02696nAUG68 ■ SLACg STUD 090 ST 3026 KkLL'I'NGTO'N KD 1* LISSA !S LO.S ■ I - i. 'S CALIF 90016 A • - • -------- \ Veqro Diqest JANUABV IQGO A JOHNSON PUDL1CAT10« ^ß 304 •Kan vc™ LITERARY LIONS mATiow AND VALUES ftll/iial U ITF/fi/ic "Tn» leading Lion" THE CRISIS OF THE BLACK NEGRO HISTORY//-, ro Diqest PUBLICATION THE TRUTH ABOUT NEGRO CRIME ft--"1 ■ and BLACK CULTURAL NATIONALISM Lick Die fa$gtoftr*utient _ INTER NUTWJNAl TTAtEi THEY SHOOT DOGS DONT THEY? CRACKPOT COURTS REBEL RADIO One ff.Vra^ Team fitful** - Evtn has got you taped tfj 30 December-13 January 1972 February 1977; 19 June 1972; 17 November-1 December 1972; 24 March 1972; December 197B; 15-19 July 1971 m»lt— hm l*ofr Hfc« l**n The Living Guide to London October 29-November 4 lOp Does It Blow My Mind Does It Expand My Consciousness? The people whti tell and distribute films - part one. Chris Spedding: The Everywhere Guitarist All knocked-out — not all the time anyway. Sell-Out: A Home Heating Guide Electricity, gas. oil -you name it. A mark of oppression becomes a badge of pride. Time Out, 30 May-13 June 1969; 18-24 June 1971; 29 October-4 November 1970; 22-28 June 1979; 15-21 December 1978 uur|||i ■ I .1 25p Thi rrvigjuV* nVilwrw lwno5«LJiü man BTid i«xnqn MO-?1 Warhol's Hofly/Crowteyfe Magic — Volume 1. Number 6. si* shillings. Jeremy §tt6tcl\ed out for you - ourGWer\ttiie :—g Review, Fall 1958 Utrs World, December 1953 \o.ember 1934; February 1934; 1933 t Only, January 1954 FiIM 8(TNT ON PLEA5 ING YOU / am Odern ROYAL HAIR BUMPERS & BACKFLASH Pinbad Passion BEAT GIRLS SATAN AND SUPERHERO ES BURNS e and LOSERS II IN THE U ROCK .'in fjirg] Hwrjrjr JT LEROY JAIL BARDS Stories from lh° Sia(í?.<í RJJSThř Priscilfas ■ Wilfy Vlautin • Milk KarT * Lany 'WHd Man" Fbdw • Uncte John anil Wftilalock • Tcny Edwards boynnd ttu tGuntn'-cuJEiirs kau« Í .1: UM- j ji :a: 1AHES CAUTY: preparing for öraeraencies VTI»1WÍ0U(E: HSIBN9T0Y RFVOLtmOM Siř™ OEHIVIl ^ f> mifir lovers leti tllw.. 9136 21 *ir*D OTHER Ro^L PeR TMC »teu 7/?e New Wave Magazine, no. l/S/gn, no. 2 L/'/e fit a Void, no. 4 Situation 3 Screw, 17 June 1974 New Wave News Boulevard, no. 1 Ripped & Torn, February-March 1977 Sniff in'Glue, October 1976 The NEW WAVE magazine ~ 7 i mediation of a mainstream music press. Sniffin' Glue, the so-calied bible of the punk movement, was founded by Mark Perry in July 1976 and folded by him a year later, a victim of its own success, having increased its circulation from 50 copies to 15,000. Tony Drayton started the influential Ripped & Torn in Glasgow around the same time. It lasted until 1979. Situation 3 was closely associated with the seminal Rough Trade record shop and narrowly escaped prosecution in Scotland after featuring an erect penis on the cover of one issue. 73 84564 Frieze, November-December 1997; May 2003 Exit, Autumn/Winter 2004 Ark, 1956 W DESIGN MAGAZINES There seem to have been design magazines for as long as the discipline has existed: their covers articulate a shifting polemic on what design actually means. Gebrauchsgraphik Jahrgang, founded in Berlin in 1924, was influential in spreading ARTISTS AND ART MAGAZINES IN THE EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURY The disruptive artistic movements of the twentieth century enjoyed a symbiotic relationship with the specialist publications that promoted their ideas and disseminated their artworks and writings. Minotaure, 1933 to 1939, was a sumptuous Surrealist publication with fantastic covers, colour printing and work by leading figures such as Picasso, Dali and in this case Max Ernst. The now rare Blad Voor Kunst was an outlet for Expressionist artists in The Netherlands. Transatlantic title Broom, launched in 1921, was a template for the twentieth century 'little' literary review, an 'aristocratic format' that showcased experimental writing and painting with luxurious production values, Another product of the seemingly endless supply of publishers willing to fund the promotion of Modernism, Transition billed itself as "An International Quarterly for Creative Experiment". As well as publishing works in progress by writers such as Joyce and Kafka, it also featured artworks by the likes of Hans Arp, Paul Klee, Alberto Giacometti, Kurt Schwitters and, the creator of this cover, Joan Miro. Despite looking like an organ of Constructivism, Revue Cenpa was actually a splendidly produced 1950s showcase for the French trade organisation representing printers and paper manufacturers. This issue came wrapped in a characteristic illustration by Fernand Leger. GRAPHIC DESIGN INCL. no.54, no. 53, no, 64. no. 67, no. 60 Graphic design vs. style, globalism, criticism, science, authenticity and humanisi Michael Schmidt Peter Bilak Katherinc McCoy Randy Nakamnra Dmitri Siegel Kenneth FitzGerald Anthony inciong Mr. Keedy David Cabianca Max Kisman No. 67 No. 64 RICK VALICENTI / KENNETH FITZGERALD MR.KEEDY / ANDREW BLAUVELT KALI NIK HAS & DENISE GONZALES CRISP & LOUISE SAND H Alt S JESSICA H ELF AND & WILLIAM DRENTTEL / SHAWN WOLFE THE READERS RESPOND 82352^1038 Emigre 37 Andy Warhol's Interview, July 1975 Emigre, no. 37