K1PL1_15 Chemistry of Cosmetic Excipients

Faculty of Pharmacy
Autumn 2024

The course is not taught in Autumn 2024

Extent and Intensity
1/0.5/0. 3 credit(s). Type of Completion: zk (examination).
In-person direct teaching
Teacher(s)
doc. PharmDr. Oldřich Farsa, Ph.D. (lecturer)
doc. PharmDr. Oldřich Farsa, Ph.D. (seminar tutor)
Guaranteed by
doc. PharmDr. Oldřich Farsa, Ph.D.
Department of Chemical Drugs – Departments – Faculty of Pharmacy
Prerequisites
K1AC1_15 General and Inorganic Chemistr && K1OC1_15 Chemistry of Organic Substance && K1PC1_15 Practical Classes in Chemistry
Formal prerequisites are not defined. However, for successful completion of the subject, basic knowledge of general, inorganic, organic and physical chemistry and physics (at the high school level) is necessary.
Course Enrolment Limitations
The course is only offered to the students of the study fields the course is directly associated with.
fields of study / plans the course is directly associated with
Course objectives
All substances found in cosmetic products can be described as cosmetic excipients or cosmetic additives or simply cosmetic raw matereials. Unlike medicinal products, it is not possible to accurately distinguish "active" substances from "others", and the applicable legislation does not even allow it. The discipline thus deals with all types of substances used in cosmetic products, from the perspective of the chemical structure and the physical and chemical properties that are based on the structure, and seeks to capture the relationship between the chemical structure and the use of substances in cosmetics. Attention is also paid to selected methods of qualitative and quantitative analysis of the ingredients of cosmetic products. If, after all, it is possible to talk about the effect, as is the case with antibacterial preservatives or antioxidants, qualitative relationships between structure and activity (SAR), or also quantitative ones (QSAR), are here presented.
Learning outcomes
A student will be capable after completion of the subject:
-to know the main groups of cosmetic excipients from the point of view of both function and chemical structure
-to know structures and important properties of several main representatives of each group
-to distinguish between excipients with a defined activity and without it
-to know and describe quantities that are possible to use for such an activity quantification, if they exist
-to know and express syntheses and mechanisms of activity of selected excipients
-to know and describe methods of analysis of selected cosmetic excipients
Syllabus
  • Lectures topics:
  • - Circumscription of the concept of cosmetic excipients or cosmetic raw materials. Their fundamental division from the points of view of their usage and structure.
    - Polysaccharide-based excipients: Stabilizers of aggregate properties of dispersion systems - viscosity-increasing agents, lacquer bases, and stabilizers of suspensions. Polysaccharides and their semisynthetic derivatives. (Starch, cellulose, cellulose and starch ethers, and esters, other important polysaccharides).
    - Stabilizers of the chemical composition of cosmetic preparations: antioxidants(inorganic and organic compounds suitable for either hydrophilic or hydrophobic media), antimicrobial and antifungal preservatives (organic compounds containing heavy metals in their molecules, phenolic compounds including a homologic series of parabens (nipagins), carboxylic acids, quaternary ammonium salts, aldehydes, and their precursors). Dependence of activity of preservatives on pH.
    - Cosmetic colorants. Lipophilic and hydrophilic dyes, inorganic pigments.
    - Emollients. Waxes, cholesterol and its derivatives, esters of higher fatty acids, fatty alcohols, oligooxoalkylated derivatives of glucose, etc.
    - Fragrance ingredients of both synthetic and natural origin.
    - UV filters.
    - Emulsifiers. Surfactants in the role of emulsifiers.

    Selectable topics for the practical class:
  • - Preparation and structure characterization of a polysaccharide derivative used in cosmetics.
    - A simple QSAR study with a homology series of antimicrobial preservatives.
    - Preparation and structure characterization of a surfactant used in cosmetics.
    - Identification and chromatography homogeneity of colorants used in cosmetics.
  • - Identification and/or determination of the content of preservatives in a cosmetic preparation.
Literature
    recommended literature
  • ŠMIDRKAL, Jan. Tenzidy. Vydání: první. Praha: Vysoká škola chemicko-technologická v Praze, 2020, 298 stran. ISBN 9788075920560. info
  • Cosmetic additives. An idustrial guide. E. W. Flick. Noyes Publications Mill Road, Park Ridge, New Jersey 07656, 1991. 911 s. ISBN 0815512554. Dostupné z https://1lib.cz/book/552486/a70060
  • SMOLINSKE, S. Handbook of food, drug, and cosmetic excipients. CRC Press, 1992, 448 pp. ISBN 978-1-351-45737-8. Přístup přes Z-Library info
  • REGULATION (EC) No 1223/2009 OFTHE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT ANDOF THE COUNCIL of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products. Available from/dostupné z: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:32009R1223&qid=1658305736225&from=CS
  • SCHUELLER, Randy and Perry ROMANOWSKI. Beginning cosmetic chemistry : an overview for chemists, formulators, suppliers and others interested in the cosmetic industry. Carol Stream: Allured Publishing Corporation, 1999, 177 s. ISBN 0931710685. info
  • Seventh Commission Directive 96/45/EC of 2 July 1996 relating to methods of analysis necessary for checking the composition of cosmetic products (Text with EEA relevance). Available at https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/ALL/?uri=CELEX:31996L0045
  • Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials. Preparation, properties and uses. Horst Surburg, Johannes Panten. Sixth edition. Wiley-VCh, Weinheim, 2016. 389 s. ISBN 9783527693177, available from/dostupné z https://1lib.cz/book/2713462/796e77?dsource=recommend
  • The chemistry of fragrances. D. Pybus, C. Sell. RSC, 1999. 297 s. ISBN 0854045287. Available from/dostupné z https://1lib.cz/book/594176/765115?dsource=recommend
  • UV and IR Spectra Pharmaceutical Substances and Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Excipients. H. -W Dibbern, R. M. Muller, E. Wirbitzki. Editio Cantor, 2002, ISBN 9783871932380. Dostupné z: https://1lib.cz/book/568480/9ee196
Teaching methods
Lectures, and a single practical class devoted to synthetic and analytical ascpects of selected excipients.
Assessment methods
Examination in the form of a written test. To participate in the exam, it is necessary to successfully complete the practical exercise, including handing in the report and its recognition by the teacher.
Language of instruction
Czech
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